How to Care for Vintage Watches: A Collector’s Guide
For people who love vintage items, some old watches are more than just a mechanism that tells time, they are pieces of art, mechanical marvels and historical objects. Every scratch on the case, every faded numeral on the dial tells the story of their journey through time.
Just as coin collectors seek out rare bicentennial quarters, watchmaking fans hunt for well-preserved, historically significant watches. But just as the value of a coin can drop dramatically due to improper handling, a vintage watch can lose its appeal if not properly cared for. When you own a collectible watch, you are responsible for its preservation to ensure that these delicate mechanisms continue to tick for many years to come.
While modern numismatics has tools like the Coin ID Scanner app to help collectors identify and appraise rare coins, caring for antique clocks requires knowledge, careful attention to detail, and proper technique. So today we would like to discuss the specifics of suitable care, storage and protection of antique watches.
Step 1: Cleaning Vintage Watches – Main Dos and Don’ts
Taking care of an antique watch is all about patience and the right touch. Many novice collectors make the mistake of overzealous cleaning, thinking they are helping but actually causing damage. Strong chemicals? Bad idea - they can rub off the metal finish. Water? Even worse. Many older watches are not waterproof, and even a small amount of moisture can cause rust inside the movement. And cleaning? It's a quick way to scratch the surface, which will make future restoration much more expensive.
So how do you properly clean a vintage watch? Simple and gentle. Dust and fingerprints appear on the case and lugs, but a soft microfiber cloth is usually enough to clean them. If there is a little tarnish, you can apply a little metal polish, just don't overdo it, or you may damage the original finish. Scratches on the crystal? Smooth them out with a little non-abrasive toothpaste or a special watch polish. And when it comes to tricky spots - around the crown, buttons and lugs - a cotton swab or soft brush will clean off any stuck-on dirt without damaging anything.
Tip: A small amount of polishing paste can work wonders on acrylic and hesalite crystals, bringing back their original clarity.
What about watch strap? The strap is an essential part of a watch’s character, and each material requires a different cleaning attitude:
Leather straps – Wipe with a damp cloth, let it air dry, and apply a leather conditioner occasionally. Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight and moisture.
Metal bracelets – Remove dirt and sweat buildup with a soft brush and mild soapy water. Dry thoroughly to prevent oxidation.
Fabric or NATO straps – These can typically be washed gently with water and mild soap, but should be air-dried completely before use.
Proper cleaning ensures that your vintage watch retains its charm and remains a prized collectible item for years to come. But cleaning is just the first step—proper storage is equally crucial, so let us also describe it in detail.
Step 2: How to Store Vintage Watches Properly
Cleaning an antique watch is essential, but proper storage is equally important to preserve its longevity. Even the best-preserved watches can deteriorate if they are not stored in the right conditions. Consequently, improper storage can lead to costly repairs or, even worse, permanent damage because of moisture, scratches and oxidation.
Create the ideal storage environment
Antique watches are very sensitive to environmental changes. Fluctuations in temperature and humidity can accelerate oxidation, weaken the gaskets and cause internal damage. Ideally, watches should be stored in a table, cool environment, as extreme temperatures can affect the lubrication in the mechanical movement, causing the watch to run too fast or too slow.
Low humidity is also your best friend, as high humidity is a silent killer. Even minor exposure to moisture can cause corrosion inside the case, thus the ideal humidity level for storage is around 40-50%. And finally, remember to keep you watches away from direct sunlight, as prolonged exposure to sunlight can fade dials, dry out leather straps and weaken the luminescent materials on antique hands and hour markers.
Interesting fact: Studies show that even slight changes in humidity can shorten the life of a watch by 20-30% due to accelerated oxidation.
Choose the right storage method
Simply tossing a vintage watch into a drawer is a recipe for disaster. Instead, choose the proper storage solutions to protect it from dust, scratches, and environmental damage:
Watch Boxes and cases – A high-quality padded watch box keeps timepieces safe from dust and accidental impacts. If you own multiple vintage watches, invest in a watch roll or display case to store them neatly.
Silica gel packs – These small moisture-absorbing packs help control humidity and prevent condensation inside watch storage areas.
Soft watch pouches – If you need a compact storage solution, a soft fabric-lined pouch provides an extra layer of protection while preventing scratches.
One more common mistake is leaving a watch in its box without proper air circulation. This can lead to condensation forming inside the case, increasing the risk of rust and movement damage.
Tip: If you suspect moisture inside the watch, do NOT attempt to dry it with heat, as this can cause internal parts to expand or warp. But what to do? Just place the watch in a dry, sealed container with silica gel packs and then consult a professional watchmaker.
Step 3: Winding the Mechanism – Avoiding Damage
If you own a mechanical vintage watch, it is imperative you know how to wind it correctly. Unlike modern self-winding watches, vintage watches use manual winding to keep the movement running smoothly. However, improper winding techniques can lead to deformation of the gears, breakage of the mainsprings, or internal misalignment.
How often should a vintage watch be wound? The frequency of winding depends on the model, but most hand-wound watches need to be wound once a day. Some vintage watches have a power reserve of 36 to 48 hours, meaning you can skip a day if necessary.
Wind your watch correctly:
Wind the watch from the wrist - turning the crown while wearing the watch can put undue pressure on the movement.
Turn the crown slowly and steadily - avoid quick movements that can overload the gears.
Stop when you feel resistance - excessive winding can cause the crown spring to break, resulting in costly repairs.
Tip: If your antique watch has stopped running, do not press the crown under any circumstances. This may indicate a lubrication problem or a mechanical malfunction requiring professional help.
Proper storage and careful winding ensure that vintage watches continue to run accurately for generations. However, even with the best care, professional servicing is essential to keep these timepieces in top condition
Step 4: Servicing and Maintenance – When to See a Watchmaker
No matter how carefully you store and wind your vintage watch, professional maintenance is necessary to ensure its longevity. Unlike modern quartz watches, which can run for years with minimal attention, vintage mechanical watches use precisely engineered gears, springs, and lubricants that degrade over time. Ignoring maintenance can lead to serious internal damage, making repairs costly or, in some cases, impossible.
How often should a vintage watch be serviced? Experts recommend visiting a service with your vintage watch every 3-5 years, depending on its age, frequency of use, and overall condition. Even if your watch seems to be running smoothly, the oils that keep the movement running smoothly can dry out, leading to increased friction and wear on fragile parts.
In fact, according to research, 70% of damage to vintage watches is caused by improper handling and amateur repairs rather than natural wear and tear.
What you should do else is to find a reliable watchmaker. Not all watchmakers specialize in vintage watches, and choosing the wrong watchmaker can lead to permanent damage. So when looking for a professional to service your watch, pay attention to their experience with vintage watches, and look for watchmakers who have worked on similar models and understand their unique mechanics. Moreover, the craftsman should understand how to use original parts (some repairs require genuine vintage parts), as modern substitutes can lower the value of the watch. And don't forget to pay attention to customer reviews and the master's reputation - a proven watchmaker with positive reviews from other collectors is a more reliable choice.
Step 5: Investing in Watches – Protecting and Increasing Their Value
For many collectors, vintage watches are more than just sentimental pieces - they are investments that can appreciate in value over time. However, to maintain or even increase their worth, proper care and documentation are key.
If you are serious about collecting vintage watches, it is important to keep them as original as possible. The more original parts a watch has, the higher its value. While minor restoration work is sometimes necessary, replacing major parts - the strap, crystal or dial - can reduce its appeal to collectors. A restored dial may give the watch a newer look, but in the world of vintage watches, originality always wins out.
And here you should also remember that not just the watch itself is important. The original box, warranty cards and certificates of authenticity add an extra layer of credibility. These small details help tell the story of the watch and can make a huge difference at resale.
Over time, some vintage watches have increased in value like rare coins. For example, Paul Newman's Rolex Daytona - bought for just $200 in 1968, it sold for a staggering $17.8 million in 2017. Or think of mid-century Patek Philippe models that are now worth millions due to their rarity and craftsmanship. Owning a well-preserved vintage watch is not just about nostalgia, it's about preserving a piece of history that can become a valuable asset for future generations.
Care that Pays off
Proper care of vintage watches is a chore, but at the same time is also a way to preserve their beauty, accuracy and value for years to come. Regular cleaning, proper storage and timely care will both extend the life of the mechanism and preserve the unique character of each piece.
